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Fall’s raw elegance at Fashion Week

  • 27 Mar
Fall’s raw elegance at Fashion Week
From the first glimpses of the Fall-Winter 2013/2014 collections at Fashion Week, one intuits that the mood is no longer romantic but rather one of raw elegance, in which rustic fabrics like Prato’s famous Cardato play an important role in a theme that will show up in next year’s magazines and on the backs of every fashionista. The collections are clearly influenced by masculine lines of the 1940s, but raw material here is the cult object that leads the whole stylistic concept. Taking as a starting point 1950s style clothing with sloped shoulders and moving towards coats made in Cardato, the silhouette is both clean and graphic. Jackets and coats in A-line shapes with an emphasis on volume, exaggerated arms, and details in fur, all in faux fur or bright colours and impactful patterns. Immaculate capes and decorative capelets are another important theme this season. Three-dimensional wool shapes complement masculine textiles like flanel, with pinstripes or plaid. Bright colours are toned down by being put next to neutral tones, a constant play of contrasts that play on important volunes, soft curves and oversized pieces. With the dominating concept being freedom – a mix of shapes, colours and fabrics in total liberty. The womens’ collections this season are strong and linear but also sophisticated and feminine. This has influenced numerous designers to readapt classics of menswear for the female figure, adding grace and elegance. The pinstripe coat changes proportions to become a feminine suit, with a wide skirt, big shoulders and full of grace and elegance. Tartan, a masculine textile par excellence, is rendered in discreet, light nuances and applied to wool tweed and gabardine. Classic textiles, part of the Pratese tradition that we see on a daily basis, renewed through the injection of contemporary shapes for a new season, a new feminine era.

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